"Anything more would be unnecessary, anything less unacceptable." This is the maxim of Carelli International's founder and CEO, Vittorio G. Carelli, whose work is characterized by occasional methodical dialogues concerning form, function, technique and materials. Under his direct leadership, the Paris-based ELSA team would create clothes that aspire to a kind of perfection that transcends fashion.
A Sense of Permanence
Unlike previous Collections, the 1989 ETE Collection was now being manufactured in facilities owned by Vittorio Carelli International S.A.R.L. France. This provided for complete control over quality and final production of its own products as well as products for other luxury brands. The new manufacturing facility was certainly no run-of-the-mill, located just outside of Paris in the Henri Bresson area, it produced Vittorio Carelli branded products as well as articles for European labels, Chanel, Herve Legar, Thierry Muglar, and others. The ETE ’89 Collection was all about clothing that ignores the constant demand for novelty and possesses an elevated character—a quality that conveys a sense of permanence in a world infatuated with the temporary.
We are often asked if Vittorio Carelli participated in the design of these products. In fact, the origin of all Vittorio Carelli branded fashion products, including Carelli Eyewear and Accessories, are the direct result of his own lead pencil. Every fitting, every stitch, every Carelli button, every photo shoot, every detail down to the eyelash was subject to his scrutiny and exacting perfection. Those who work close to him know indeed the meaning of exacting perfection.
The Result
Sales revenue from the ETE ’89 Collection represented a staggering 300% increase over its previous HIVER predecessor. However, more significant was the press attention associated with this particular Collection. The industry publication Marie Claire read, “fashion assumes a new form and shape, a soft comfortable silhouette that redefines the whole body by focusing on a slender waistline, Vittorio Carelli has taken a leading role, with a Collection poised for the future with a vision that crystallizes his approach to fashion as timeless, and yet well-timed.”
Collection ETE ’89 Highlights
A Sense of Permanence. Clothing that ignores the constant demand for novelty and possesses an elevated character—a quality that conveys a sense of permanence in a world infatuated with the temporary.
Manufacturing In-house, Under Strict Control. The ETE ‘89 Collection led to a new manufacturing facility located just outside of Paris in the Henri Bresson area, owned and operated by Vittorio Carelli International S.A.R.L. France. This provided for complete control over quality and final production.
Manufacturing Other Labels. The new manufacturing facility was certainly no run-of-the-mill, it produced Vittorio Carelli branded products as well as articles for European labels, Chanel, Herve Legar, Thierry Muglar, and others.
A Bold 300% Increase in Sales. Sales revenue from the ETE ‘89 Collection represented a staggering 300% increase over its previous HIVER predecessor. However, more significant was the press attention associated with this particular Collection.
Publications Takes Notice. The industry publication Marie Claire read, ”fashion assumes a new form and shape, a soft comfortable silhouette that redefines the whole body by focusing on a slender waistline, Vittorio Carelli has taken a leading role, with a Collection poised for the future with a vision that crystallizes his approach to fashion as timeless, and yet well-timed.“
We See the Future a Bit Differently. People will be looking for brands and logos which identify a lifestyle they adhere to or want to belong to, observes Marjo Sausse, chief of research and development operations, prêt-à-porter products.
Product Identity. Special buttons developed specifically for the previous ’89-89 HIVER Collection were justifiably preserved; the largest, 38 millimeters in size, offered a unique one-of-a-kind method for attachment.
Vittorio Carelli Lunettes. Accessory eyeglasses were created for three distinct product categories of the Collection ETE '89.
A Painstaking Process. The repeated model development and staging process required in the clothing business is uniquely more difficult than with other products or markets. Each Collection, consisting of as many as two hundred individual models or more, is created several times annually.
Vittorio Carelli Reaffirms Business Alliances. The Vittorio Carelli ETE ‘89 Collection was indeed well received, reaffirming business alliances with a prestigious list of resellers from around the world—a list that even those with well-established labels would envy.
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We See the Future a Bit Differently
“From the onset, we’ve had a different hypothesis about fashion and the trends associated with it. We feel there is now a growing crossover of trends in fashion and other products such as home decor,” observes Marjo Sausse, chief of research and development operations, prêt-à-porter products, Vittorio Carelli International S.A.R.L. France. “When we see stripes in fashion, we see them also for the home and vice-versa. We believe clients will be looking for designer goods that either reflect his or her universe or express the kind of universe he or she wants to be in. When someone buys Dior sheets today, they are trying to belong to the Galliano for Dior tribe. People will be looking for brands and logos which identify a lifestyle they adhere to or want to belong to. Only time will tell if our forecast is correct. However, should this prove to be the case, anonymous labels will soon no longer have a raison d'être.”
The Creative Process of Fashion
“Two hundred models or more several times a year.”
The repeated model development and staging process required in the clothing business is uniquely more difficult than with other products or markets. Each Collection, consisting of as many as two hundred individual models or more, is created several times annually. The customer is always eager, buyers are finicky, and the press is forever providing a free-for-all for those creating genuine ideas, as well as those who miss the mark altogether. It’s exhausting, and at the same time exhilarating.
The story behind the Vittorio Carelli Collection ETE ’89
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Legal Information
© 1988-PRESENT Carelli International Corporation. All Rights Reserved. Vittorio Carelli, The Carelli Floral logo, and other product names, model numbers, logos, commercial symbols, trade names and slogans are trademarks of Carelli International Corporation or its subsidiaries in the U.S. and other countries.
© 1973-PRESENT Carelli International Corporation. All Rights Reserved. Carelli, Carelli Design, and the Carelli logo are registered trademarks of Carelli International Corporation or its subsidiaries in the U.S. and other countries.
Revised December 2022
Publication Ref. 8941.9261 EN form 9261.1/V110
The Story Behind the Label
The Vittorio Carelli ETE ‘89 Collection was indeed well received, reaffirming business alliances with a prestigious list of resellers from around the world—a list that even those with well-established labels would envy. This ETE Collection was accredited by a gathering of press; the industry publication Marie Claire read “fashion assumes a new form and shape, a soft shape that redefines the whole body by focusing on a slender waistline, Vittorio Carelli has taken a leading role, with a Collection poised for the future with a vision that crystallizes his approach to fashion as timeless, and yet well-timed.”
Still, in the midst of all this growing enthusiasm and positive publicity building around the Vittorio Carelli label, something was undeniably brewing behind the scenes. Decision makers at Carelli International had set a distinct expectation, and the company found itself facing a mounting dilemma. Despite all the positive press and growth in sales, the amount of time required to properly develop each Collection was difficult to maintain at the high standards Carelli International had established. In addition to the Collection, the chief designer was equally devoted to other key activities within Carelli International, and this ultimately resulted in a decision to discontinue further Vittorio Carelli “silver label” products in 1991.
Carelli International’s founder and CEO, Vittorio Carelli would remark that “our company’s objective, above all, is to create a significant product. Any compromise at this point would render us something less, something other than what we have become.” Who we are
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We often receive inquiries from the public requesting information about specific projects. For this reason, we provide a small assortment of past and present products online for public view. Unfortunately, the majority and perhaps most significant examples of our accomplishments may not be publicly disclosed by us at the request of our clients. We are always honored by the public’s curiosity in our work and welcome those interested to take a browse around in order to learn more about our creative process.
The Company
Carelli Design, Codeworks CSE, and Webworks CSE, units of Carelli International, provide product and experience design, mechanical and software engineering, brand innovation, advertising, photography, audio and visual communication, film, and web development, across multiple technologies, platforms, and media. EuroSystem Systems & Technology, a subsidiary of Carelli International, specializes in the design, manufacture, and distribution of ultra-high-end commercial reverse osmosis purification for the medical, pharmaceutical, and food service industries. Vittorio Carelli International S.A.R.L. Paris France, reassigned to U.S. operations in 1993, specializes in the design, manufacture, and distribution of luxury items. 50+ years of applied experience have earned the Carelli name a reputation for excellence in everything it elects to engage. Clients include Coca-Cola, Sony, Motorola, Starbucks, Disney, Porsche, GE, China Unicom, and many Fortune 500 companies. More about Carelli Design
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Collection ETE
'89 Highlights
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ETE ‘89—Interactive Experience
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ETE ’89—Concepts
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ETE ’89—Research
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News at Carelli Design
WEBworks Unit; Digital Brainiacs at Carelli Design Begin Major Upgrade of Carelli Websites.
Digital Works Unit; Carelli Software Engineers Reunite with China Unicom Telecom Unit.
Carelli International Begins New Venture with Legendary Online Powerhouse, It Was Inevitable.
Carelli International Embraces Further Alliances in China with Yin Core, Yang Portfolio.
Carelli International Celebrates 50 Years of Industrial Design, Making the Future Happen.
Carelli Design: The “Moment Of Truth” When a Consumer Chooses a Product.
Carelli International; Identifying the Challenges of New Media, Every Day Feels like a Brand-new Game.
EuroSystem Unit; 600 Bottled Water Brands, and No Uniform State or Federal Standards.
EuroSystem Unit; EuroSystem Technology ES TFC2 Release-4, Brews Pure Java at Starbucks.
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Awards
Awards from the Industrial Designers Society of America,
the International Interior Design Association, the American
Institute of Architects, and many others have supported
our contributions to industrial product design. We continue
to be committed to developing products and solutions
that meet the demands of our clients while appealing
to the emotional desires of consumers. We are equally
committed to bigger issues—humanity, equality,
and bettering the world we live in.
What We Believe