"In the spring of 1988, under the leadership of Vittorio Carelli, the new Paris-based ELSA team would create a product that would aspire to a kind of understated simplicity. The entire message was comfort and the habitual demand for novelty was deliberately avoided. Its quality would convey a sense of permanence in a world infatuated with the temporary. Shapes were soft, materials were pure, and the concept was strategic.
The Manner of Understated Simplicity
The 1988-1989 HIVER Collection represented nearly the
beginning of the Vittorio Carelli Platinum Label products
offered through Vittorio Carelli International S.A.R.L.
France. Although two previous collections existed, only
the later Collection would ultimately be made
available. The creative team responsible for the line,
eventually referred to as team ELSA, illustrated its
readiness early on, while everyone else in the organization
was regrettably allocated to other projects. More significant
to the occasion was the fact that the new Vittorio Carelli
Platinum Label was totally unknown.
We are often asked if Vittorio Carelli participated in the design of these products. In fact, the origin of all Vittorio Carelli branded fashion products, including Carelli Eyewear and Accessories, are the direct result of his own lead pencil. Every fitting, every stitch, every Carelli button, every photo shoot, every detail down to the eyelash was subject to his scrutiny and exacting perfection. Those who work close to him know indeed the meaning of exacting perfection.
“In fashion, conventional methods of doing
business are nearly worthless.”
While the practice of marketing analysis may prove
effective with other luxury items, it is nearly
useless in the haute-couture and prêt-à-porter
arena.
The HIVER ‘88-89 Collection enabled Carelli International to establish business alliances with numerous important resellers from around the world. The list would eventually represent a prestigious group of stores in prime locations. Carelli International knew from the onset that the very nature of the HIVER Collection would draw little press; that premonition would eventually prove correct, as only minimal coverage was received. The HIVER Collection was based on a kind of understated simplicity with none of the usual disharmony in design and sour off-colors to which the press core is so accustomed. It was the year 1988, Europeans had little exposure to the relaxed spirit reflected in this particular Collection—one of the many calculated moves stemming from what was indeed the overall strategic plan of the ELSA team.
The subsequent “Collection ETE ‘89”
would prove to be an exciting turning point; the Collection,
as well as the ground-breaking news from the decision
makers at Carelli International. Collection
ETE ‘89
Collection HIVER ’88-89 Highlights
The New Platinum Label. The 1988-1989
HIVER Collection represented nearly the beginning of
the Vittorio Carelli Platinum Label products offered
through Vittorio Carelli International S.A.R.L. France.
Carelli Design's New ELSA Team.
The new creative team responsible for the line based
in Paris, eventually referred to as team ELSA, had the
opportunity to demonstrate its readiness early on. More
significant to the occasion was the fact that the new
Vittorio Carelli Platinum Label was totally unknown.
Understated Simplicity. The HIVER
’88-89 Collection was based on a kind of understated
simplicity with little to none of the usual disharmony
in design and sour off-colors to which the press core
is so accustomed.
This Was The Year 1988. Europeans
had little exposure to the relaxed spirit reflected
in this particular Collection—one of the many
deliberate moves stemming from what was indeed the overall
strategic plan of the ELSA team.
100% Pure. Quality that would convey
a sense of permanence in a world infatuated with the
temporary. Shapes were soft, materials were pure, and
the concept was calculated.
Product Identity. Special buttons
developed specifically for the HIVER ‘88-89 Collection,
the largest 38 millimeters in size, offered a unique
one-of-a-kind method for attachment.
People and Brands. “We believe
clients will be looking for designer goods that either
reflect his or her universe or express the kind of universe
he or she wants to be in. When someone buys Dior sheets
today, they are trying to belong to the Galliano for
Dior tribe. People will be looking for brands and logos
which identify a lifestyle they adhere to or want to
belong to,” observes Marjo Sausse, chief of research
and development operations, prêt-à-porter
products.
Alliances With Established Resellers.
The HIVER ‘88-89 Collection enabled Carelli International
to establish business alliances with numerous important
resellers from around the world. The list would eventually
represent a prestigious group of stores in prime locations.
A Painstaking Process. The repeated
model development and staging process required in the
clothing business is uniquely more difficult than with
other products or markets. Each Collection, consisting
of as many as two hundred individual models or more,
is created several times annually.
Nineteen-eighty-eight. The year 1988
was a long time ago. We do, however, find it somewhat
rewarding to see that the HIVER ’88-89 concept
of “understated simplicity” has revealed
some durability. In some cases, those past models mimic
that of today’s current market—32+ years
later.
Options, Accessories and Related
We apologize—this information is no longer made
available.
We See the Future a Bit Different
“From the onset, we’ve had a different
hypothesis about fashion and the trends associated with
it. We feel there is now a growing crossover of trends
in fashion and other products such as home decor,”
observes Marjo Sausse, chief of research and development
operations, prêt-à-porter products, Vittorio
Carelli International S.A.R.L. France. “When we see
stripes in fashion, we see them also for the home and
vice-versa. We believe clients will be looking for designer
goods that either reflect his or her universe or express
the kind of universe he or she wants to be in. When
someone buys Dior sheets today, they are trying to belong
to the Galliano for Dior tribe. People will be looking
for brands and logos which identify a lifestyle they
adhere to or want to belong to. Only time will tell
if our forecast is correct. However, should this prove
to be the case, anonymous labels will soon no longer
have a raison d'être.”
The Creative Process of Fashion
“Two hundred models or more several times
a year.”
The repeated model development and staging process
required in the clothing business is uniquely more difficult
than with other products or markets. Each Collection,
consisting of as many as two hundred individual models
or more, is created several times annually. The customer
is always eager, buyers are finicky, and the press is
forever providing a free-for-all for those creating
genuine ideas, as well as those who miss the mark altogether.
It’s exhausting, and at the same time exhilarating.
Although
the HIVER ‘88-89 Collection brings back wonderful
memories for us, it hardly represents great significance
with the market today, simply because of the inherent
“ever-changing” nature of fashion. The year
1988 was a long time ago. We do, however, find it somewhat
rewarding to see that the HIVER ’88-89 concept
of “understated simplicity” has revealed
some durability. In some cases, those past models mimic
that of today’s current market—32+ years
later. Was our vision coincidental?
A Small Portion of Our Work is Available for Public View
We often receive inquiries from the public requesting information about specific projects. For this reason, we provide a small assortment of past and present products online for public view. Unfortunately, the majority and perhaps most significant examples of our accomplishments may not be publicly disclosed by us at the request of our clients. We are always honored by the public’s curiosity in our work and welcome those interested to take a browse around in order to learn more about our creative process.
The Company
Carelli Design, Codeworks CSE, and Webworks CSE, units of Carelli International, provide product and experience design, mechanical and software engineering, brand innovation, advertising, photography, audio and visual communication, film, and web development, across multiple technologies, platforms, and media. EuroSystem Systems & Technology, a subsidiary of Carelli International, specializes in the design, manufacture, and distribution of ultra-high-end commercial reverse osmosis purification for the medical, pharmaceutical, and food service industries. Vittorio Carelli International S.A.R.L. Paris France, reassigned to U.S. operations in 1993, specializes in the design, manufacture, and distribution of luxury items. 50+ years of applied experience have earned the Carelli name a reputation for excellence in everything it elects to engage. Clients include Coca-Cola, Sony, Motorola, Starbucks, Disney, Porsche, GE, China Unicom, and many Fortune 500 companies.
More about Carelli Design
Interactive Experience
The Collection HIVER ‘88-89 by Vittorio Carelli
and the ELSA team caused the press core to take notice
(requires Flash). Flash is a free download direct from
Macromedia. Download
Macromedia Flash
Collection
HIVER ‘88-89—Concepts
Take a look into the ELSA team design studios responsible
for creating the HIVER ‘88-89 Collection with
this video (3.5MB QuickTime). Requires Quicktime, QuickTime
is a free download direct from Apple. Download Apple QuickTime
Navigate your way around a number of models from the
HIVER ‘88-89 Collection. Each file is approximately
250KB and requires QuickTime. QuickTime is a free download
direct from Apple. Download
Apple QuickTime
Journalists are granted access privileges to our Press Members Website. Those permitted can view and obtain current press release materials on past projects as well as projects currently under development. Journalists are urged to contact Press Member Services for information concerning available projects, project ID's and password keys.
Awards from the Industrial Designers Society of America,
the International Interior Design Association, the American
Institute of Architects, and many others have supported
our contributions to industrial product design. We continue
to be committed to developing products and solutions
that meet the demands of our clients while appealing
to the emotional desires of consumers. We are equally
committed to bigger issues—humanity, equality,
and bettering the world we live in.
